February Tips
February, is a challenging month for the
avid gardener. The weather is unpredictable, and it seems that
there is not much to do. In this area, it may even be our coldest
month. But yet, there are gardening chores and improvements we can
make to our landscapes and gardens.
Indoor Plants
Lawn and Landscaping
Perennials,
Annuals and Bulbs
Trees, Shrubs and Groundcovers
Vegetables
Tools
and Equipment Miscellaneous
Indoor Plants
- Once a month, water your acid-loving plants, such as
gardenia and citrus, using a solution of 1 teaspoon of vinegar
to 1 quart of water.
- Check plants on southern indoor windowsills. Low winter sun
angles may cause scorching.
- Resume a fertilizer schedule for indoor plants.
- Remember as a general rule, plants with thick leaves can
take lower light levels than those with thin leaves.
- Pot up a few clumps of crocuses from the garden as they
emerge. In a sunny indoors spot, they will develop blooms
before the ones outside.
- Late February is a good time to air-layer such house plants
as dracaena, dieffenbachia, fatsia, and rubber plant, especially
if they have grown too tall and leggy.
- Check all five growing factors if your house plants are not
growing well. Light, temperature, nutrients, moisture, and
humidity must be favorable to provide good growth.
- Amaryllis bulbs may not bloom if they are in too large a
pot. There should be no more than one inch of space on each
side of the bulb. At least one third of the bulb should be
above the soil line.
- Wash leaves of plants with smooth or large leaves to remove
dust and grime, keeping the leaf pores open.
- Good air circulation is absolutely necessary for cacti and
succulents. Avoid placing them in hot, stuffy areas. Be sure
your indoor garden is well ventilated, yet not drafty.
- Research has shown that some leaf shine products sold for
house plants can reduce the amount of light reaching the
interior of the leaves. It was shown that surfaces of leaves
treated as such, reflect significant amounts of light instead of
absorbing it. Low-light conditions, plus use of leaf shine
compounds, could add up to unhealthy plants.
- Never fertilize a plant in dry soil. The fertilizer could
burn roots that need water. It's better to water plants a
couple of hours before fertilizing.
- The fumes produced by kerosene heaters in a small greenhouse
may damage plants.
- Avoid overcrowding in greenhouses and hotbeds. Crowding can
lead to trouble in the middle of winter when the ventilators are
rarely opened. Still, damp air encourages fungus diseases, and
the soft new growth on the plants invites aphid infestation,
especially when crowding occurs.
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Lawns and Landscaping
- Don't forget wildlife when creating a landscape plan. They
need both living and dead trees for survival.
- If you think back over the yard work of last year and feel
it took too much time and effort, an analysis of your site and
the suitability of your plantings is in order. Landscaping
looks best and is most easily maintained where a site has been
analyzed for its natural characteristics, including pH,
drainage, slopes, sun and shade patterns, wind direction and
intensity, exposure to salt or air pollution, and so on. With
such an analysis in hand, you can select plants that work with
your site, rather than in spite of it. The result will be
reduced maintenance and a better looking landscape.
- Place stakes in intended planting spots and view from
several angles to help you picture how new plants will look.
Once you have the plants ready to plant, always place them,
still in the pots, where you intend to plant and step back and
view the whole area one last time before committing the plant to
the ground.
- Consider planting plants with interesting winter form or
color so you can enjoy them next year.
- Cold winds this month should remind you to order evergreen
windbreaks such as American arborvitae, Austrian pine, Canadian
hemlock, and white spruce.
- Consider using ferns in your home landscape. Maidenhair,
sensitive, cinnamon, and Christmas ferns are good choices.
Ferns like an even supply of water throughout the growing
season, so soil with a high humus content is ideal because it
retains water.
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Perennials, Annuals and
Bulbs
- If the soil dries out against a house under the eaves where
rain rarely reaches, water well during a thaw to prevent loss of
plants. Remember that plants require water during the winter to
replace water lost due to wind desiccation and lack or rain or
snow.
- Delphinium and echinop will bloom again this fall, if cut
back to the ground after flowering this spring. Coreopsis,
heliopsis, and gaillardia should bloom again in the fall, if
seed is not allowed to develop on the plants in spring.
- Geranium seeds started now will produce plants large enough
to transplant to outdoor flower beds in May. Plant in
sterilized potting soil, covering them about one-fourth inch
deep. If you over wintered geraniums indoors, root cuttings
now.
- Start slow-developing flowers such as alyssum, coleus, dusty
miller, geranium, impatiens, marigold, petunia, phlox,
portulaca, salvia, vinca, and verbena in January or February.
- Watch for signs of growth in early spring bulbs. When
foliage is 1 inch high, gradually start removing mulch. Cloudy
days are best, for the initial exposure of the leaves to strong
sunlight can burn tender foliage.
- Pinch off early buds from developing pansies to encourage
plants to branch and form more buds.
- Order perennial plants and bulbs now for cut flowers this
summer. Good choices are phlox, daisy, dahlia, cosmos, aster,
gladiolus, and lily.
- Ageratum, begonia, marigold, and petunia seeds can be
started indoors now. Sprinkle the small seeds sparingly onto
moist soil and gently press them in.
- Check stored bulbs, tubers, and corms. Discard any that are
soft or diseased.
- Don't remove mulch from perennials too early. A warm day may
make you think spring is almost here, but there may be more cold
weather yet to come.
- Order gladiolus corms now for planting later in the spring
after all danger of frost has passed. Locate in full sun in
well-drained soil.
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Trees, Shrubs and
Groundcovers
- Deciduous trees with narrow crotch angles (such as Bradford
pear) are more susceptible to snow damage than are trees with
wide-branching angles as they have poor structure across the
angle.
- Ice damage to woody plants occurs when high winds break
heavily coated branches. Evergreens are more susceptible to snow
damage than are deciduous plants as they have more foliage
surface for snow accumulation.
- Crape myrtles are hardier if grown as a small shrub and
pruned back each spring when growth starts. Water, fertilize,
and remove dead blossoms until mid-August for almost continuous
summer bloom. Withhold water, nutrients, and pruning in early
fall to slow growth prior to winter.
- If you are planning to add shade trees to your landscape,
here are a few things you should know. Some types of trees have
roots that may invade drain fields, crack walks, and pierce
foundation walls, so plan the placement and species of the trees
to avoid problems. For instance, poplar and ash are known for
cracking walls, and should never be planted near houses or
walls. Keep these species at the perimeter of the yard. Maple
roots can raise heavy concrete sidewalks, and willow and
crabapple trees can invade drainage fields with their fibrous
roots.
- Broadleaved evergreens can be pruned before new growth
begins this spring. This will enable new growth to cover the cut
surfaces and exposed inner branches.
- Shrubs for spring planting should be ordered now. Bare root,
deciduous types should be planted while still dormant, about 1
month before the average date of the last frost in our area.
Hardy, container-grown and balled and burlapped shrubs may be
planted anytime, except during severe, cold weather.
- Check valuable trees and shrubs for tent caterpillar egg
masses and bag worms. Remove them to reduce the number of
destructive pests this spring. Tent caterpillar egg masses are
gray and varnished looking and form a collar around twigs.
Bagworms look somewhat like a pine cone hanging at the end of
branches.
- Remove honeysuckle and other weedy vines from deciduous
plants while the plants are still leafless. It's easier then to
distinguish between the weeds and desired plants.
- Water shrubs in your landscape throughout the winter if the
soil is dry. Evergreen plants transpire water from their leaves
whenever the air temperature is above 40°.
- Late winter is the time to prune many deciduous trees. Look
over your plants now and remove dead, dying, unsightly parts of
the tree, sprouts growing at or near the base of the tree trunk,
crossed branches, and V-shaped crotches.
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Vegetables
- This year plan to grow at least one new vegetable that
you've never grown before; it may be better than what you are
already growing. The new dwarf varieties on the market
which use less space while producing more food per square foot
may be just what you're looking for.
- Send off seed orders early this month to take advantage of
seasonal discounts. Some companies offer bonus seeds of
new varieties to early buyers.
- Don't start your vegetable plants indoors too early.
Six weeks ahead of the expected planting date is early enough
for the fastgrowth species such as cabbage. Eight weeks
allows enough time for the slowergrowing types such as peppers.
- Consider purchasing some floating row cover material to
protect crops against insects and promote early growth.
- Did your tomato, eggplant and pepper plants flop over last
year? Construct or purchase strong supports for these
plants with wire fencing, wood or metal stakes.
- Later this month, you can start sowing seeds of early season
greens such as spinach, lettuce, kale, mustard, sorrel, corn
salad and other greens indoors under fluorescent tubes.
- Herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and lavender seeds can also
be started indoors in late February.
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Tools and Equipment
- Repair and paint window boxes, lawn furniture, and other
items in preparation for outdoor gardening and recreational use.
- Make labels for your spring garden. Plastic milk jugs or
bleach bottles cut in strips 1 inch by 6 or 7 inches work well.
Use permanent ink markers to write on them.
- Start building up your supply of gardening aids, such as
plastic milk jugs for hot caps and orange juice cans to make
guards to stop cutworms.
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Miscellaneous
- Check the roses in your Valentine's arrangement for "bent
neck". When your roses droop this way, it is best to pull them
from the arrangement and discard since re-cutting the stems will
not perk them up again.
- To save time when the growing season is in full swing, sort
seed packets by season now. Put each group (transplant, early,
middle, late) in its own box. In each box, group packets into
early, middle and late subsections. When sowing time comes,
there will be no time lost searching for seed.
- Thyme, a low-growing, woody perennial herb, should be
started from seed every two or three years because older plants
produce coarser, lower grade stems and leaves. Thyme seeds often
germinate poorly when planted directly in the soil, so it is
advisable to start plants indoors and transplant later.
- Handle seed packets carefully. Rubbing the outside to
determine how many seeds are inside can break the protective
seed coats, thereby reducing germination.
- Poor seed germination often results from planting in cold
soil. Seeds pre-sprouted between layers of moist paper towels
may become successfully established when dormant seeds fail. But
pre-sprouted seeds are fragile to handle. A planting gel can be
made by suspending pre-sprouted seeds in a mixture of 1
tablespoon of cornstarch heated to a boil in 1 cup of water.
When the mixture cools, put it in a plastic bag, add
pre-sprouted seeds, and stir gently to distribute seeds evenly.
Then cut a small hole in the bottom of the bag and squeeze the
gel out along the planting furrow. You have solved the problem
of poor germination as well as plant spacing.
- To make old hay and manure weed-free, spread them on the
soil in late winter, water well, and cover with black plastic.
Weed seeds will sprout after a few days of warm weather, then
will be killed by frost and lack of light.
- If you seek unusual glass vases for cut flowers, try test
tubes and beakers, available from hospital supply stores and
catalogs. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Offering a
full view of stems, they add a new dimension to flower
arranging.
- Insecticidal soaps can cause browning of leaf margins and
brown or yellow spots on leaves of some plants, especially if
the plants are stressed from repotting or transplanting. Some
varieties of begonias, impatiens, geraniums, fuchsias,
gardenias, and nasturtiums show sensitivity to soap sprays. Test
for sensitivity by treating a small part of the plant, then
checking the plant several times over the next two days. If a
test plant wilts, rinse it off with water and do not use soap
spray on that cultivar.
- If fungus develops on your potted herbs, cut them back to
encourage healthy new growth.
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