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Earth Day"Gardening is a matter of your enthusiasm holding up until your back gets used to it."
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angry gardenerEnjoy this new feature of our site that will feature organic garden tips from Newport News master gardener Bill Garlette!  The tips from him, though whimsical and humorous, are seriously geared toward using organic and natural practices that we can use to help maintain our precious natural resources and fragile environment.  If we all took them to heart, our lives would be enriched by what we have created.

If you have a horticultural suggestion for an article, please contact us at 757-591-4838 or email us.  Also take time to visit the references for organic practices on the Resources Page.

Compost Happens
Ten Tips for Truly Terrific Turf

 

Compost Happens

Ok, here's the challenge.  Next week, for all of your meals, only take vitamin and mineral supplements.  What?  No clue as to where to start?  Ok.  Then take all of your meals for the week and have them all at once for Sunday dinner.  What are you, nuts!?  But this is what we do with our lawns and gardens.

How can we figure out what our plants need for chemical nutrients if we can't do it for ourselves?  And what's the problem with giving them all the "food" they need at one time?  Won't they just sort it out?  Truth is, plants do sort out what they need but on a much smaller and slower basis.  So, here's that Soil Science degree thing again?  Right?  Nope.  Let nature sort it out with compost.  Embrace the simple and easy.  Be one with the pile.  Use the horse, Luke.

Properly prepared and matured compost will have tons of nutrients and biotics to provide plants with what they need, when they need it and at the rate they need it.  Plants take up nutrients an atom at a time, so putting lots of chemicals down will kill the good microbes (remember, the salts in fertilizer kill them), make the plants dependent on the chemicals (like being on steroids), keep the soil firm and compacted, and essentially insure nothing improves.

Plants grown in poor, compacted soils that are low in nutrients, will grow futilely and be stressed by nutrient deficiencies.  This, then, makes them easy prey for insects and disease.  In contrast, soil that is rich, well-drained, and teeming with communities of assorted microbes markedly increases the plant's chance at a healthy life.  And, since many pests and disease organisms spend part of their life below ground, having an abundant community of organisms to keep them in check is important.

Compost provides:

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Beneficial organisms

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Nutrients

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Loosen heavy clay soils

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Helps sandy soils hold moisture

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Can be used to make potting soil

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Can be used as a mulch

Why compost?

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Cheap

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Simple

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No chemicals which kill the soil organisms

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Better plant and water quality

So how do you make compost or where do you get it in small quantities or bulk?  How do you apply it?

Here in Kiln Creek, there are understandable restrictions on compost piles.  You can use small, self contained systems but you must be certain to use feedstocks that will not attract flies or unwanted critters.  Below are some good things to use.  Notice, I've omitted manures.  They are excellent materials for composting, but our community is too residential to insure not offending your neighbors.  Also, you won't see meats, dairy products and greases.  You don't even want to think what comes along with these additions.

"Greens" (Nitrogen Sources)
Coffee grounds and tea bags
Seaweed
Vegetable scraps
Egg shells
Fruit
Weeds
Grass clippings
 

"Browns" (Carbon Sources)
Leaves
Hay
Straw
Nutshells
Shredded newspaper
Pine needles
Saw dust (not from treated wood)
 

If you are truly interested, email me, captaincompost@Verizon.net, and I'll send an attachment on how to make various composting system.  This includes designs for a worm compost system.  Yep, worms, but not the night crawlers we usually think of.  Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are the guys that do the job.  You can use the small rubber storage container; leave it in the garage, shed or outside if it's not too hot or cold; put in newspaper and kitchen scrapes and the worms do the rest.

Where to get completed compost?  Several places carry the good stuff on the Peninsula.  Newport News has a compost facility on Warwick Blvd. and sells to the public, though you must transport it yourself.  There are two commercial products that are carried at our garden and mulch centers—NutriGreen and Nature's Blend.  Both are properly processed for use in any area of your gardening.

You can use compost every place you would use fertilizer including your lawn.  Actually, especially your lawn.  Top dressing the lawn, with about one inch of compost, once or twice a year will add back nutrients and build up needed organic matter.  And don't forget about using the mulcher-mower.  Grass clippings are considered "green manure".  Why give them to the city, so they can put them in their compost piles, so you buy it back, to put it back where it started to begin with—ON YOUR GRASS!  On your beds, use 2-3", once or twice a year.  Here are a couple of good links to Virginia Tech sites on compost:

www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/compost/452-231/452-231.html

www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426-703/426-703.html

We live in an amazing and wonderfully exciting scientific and technological era.  The big companies and lawn guys, though, would have us think that lawn care and gardening are very complicated; that their "scientific" approach to fertilizers, etc., is the easy and simple way (Oh, and by the way, comparatively, very expensive).  And that's the beauty of free speech—there are those of us who can say, "Nope.  Just use good organic stuff you already have on hand and nature will do the science."  Use the One-Step program—COMPOST.  Remember, "A Rind is a Terrible Thing to Waste".

"Just say No to Lawn and Garden Drugs:  A Series on Healthy Soil;  Part Deux"
Bill Garlette, Newport News master gardener

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Ten Tips for Truly Terrific Turf

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Get a Soil Test.  Don't spend money on amendments and fertilizers until you get a soil test results.

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Grow the Right Grass.  The most common lawn turf in the Mid-Atlantic, Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescues, need the most water and fertilizers to grow well.  Think about going with a warm season grass (zoysia, Bermuda, etc.).

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Water Properly.  Water in the morning to retain the moisture and to avoid fungus problems.  Water deeply and infrequently so grass roots will grow deeply.  Only 1" to 1˝" of water a week counting rainfall.

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Think of Your Soil as Alive.  The soil that grows your lawn is teeming with life.  These creatures, large and small, nurture your grass.  So feed them and they'll feed your plants.  Natural, organic materials will lead to a successful lawn.

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Mow Properly.  Leave them where they lay.  Cut the grass with a mulcher mower and leave them in the lawn.  This is called "Green Manure" and provides your lawn with "free" nutrients.  Keep those mower blades sharp.  Sharpen after hours of run time.

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Avoid Synthetics.  Laboratory fertilizers often "burn" the lawn and soil and are missing many micro-ingredients plants need.  Use fertilizers and soil amendments that were once living plant, animal, or mined materials like alfalfa meal or chicken manure.

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Compost, Compost, Compost.  You can't use a better soil additive.  Compost contains vast amounts of beneficial microorganisms, loosens clay soil, aggregates sandy soil, retains water and provides the catalyst for plants to get those micronutrients.

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Weeds Tell All.  More often than not, weeds are telling you something is amiss ( I really wanted to say "a rye", but the groan would be too over-powering) with your soil.  Mother Nature will fill in where the soil is out of balance with something else.  Usually this is a weed.  Too much water, too much fertilizer, nutrients out of whack, grass is too short and so on.

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See Pests as Messengers.  The bugs that eat the plants come because plants/grasses are stressed; a rush of new growth from synthetic fertilizers; the bad bug predators are poisoned by various chemical treatments (you don't just kill pests with insecticides) all bring pests.

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Overseed Regularly with an Approved Seed.  We mow before our grass can go to seed.  By overseeding in the spring or fall (depending on grass season type), you add new strong plants to your grass "crop".  Check with your Extension Office or Master Gardener website for the recommended types of grasses to plant in our area.

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Last modified: 05/04/08